El Borracho de Oro delivers golden flavours

You know that a lunch is good when you sit for hours scoffing even when your trouser belt begins to perform the function of a gastric band.

Such was the afternoon I spent at El Borracho de Oro lazily sipping red wine and oloroso and nibbling a variety of courses unable to decide which I liked best.
It’s a restaurant to which I’d not returned since soon after its opening eight months ago and now I’m scratching my head and asking why.
For this is wonderful authentic Spanish food – well-crafted, well-conceived refined rustic fare.

The decor

A large, light airy space that somehow feels welcoming, with plenty of homely decorative touches to complement the unfussy tables and chairs and the capacity of the room.

The service

The charming Spanish staff are attentive, informed and friendly.
Dishes that might be unfamiliar in a city that’s unused to proper Iberian cuisine are explained concisely but in detail.
Being a trusting sort of guy, I asked for dishes of which the chef was particularly proud.

The food

My faith was repaid for – though the dishes were many and various – all hit the target with their bold flavours and textures.
Mussels had been cooked precisely so that they remained apricot-hued and yielding and came in an hazlenut-based sauce not unlike a tamed-down romesco sauce,
Croquetas de Jamon Ibercio – snappy Iberian ham in an oozing bechamel encased in a crisp coating – were a joy.
But among the contenders for the Dish of the Day was Fideua de Marsico – a seafood combo similar to paella but made with Catalan noodles. It had incredible depth of flavour.
It was rivalled by Fabada Asturiana – a traditional stew from Asturias, made with enormous butterbeans, chorizo, morcilla and pancetta.
Lechazo Asado featured tender, slow-cooked roasted milk-fed lamb with a rich sauce and slow-cooked ox-tail came with with sweet potato puree and shallots
A tonka bean Crema Catalana was luxurious, sweet and a fine end to the meal.


Unsurprisingly, Spanish beers and wines dominate the list. There are also ciders, cocktails, liquors and spirits. Wines kick in at £17 a bottle.

Need to know

Tapas are priced from between £6 and £12 for a speciality such as roast suckling lamb.
Go cheaper by choosing the £6.95 lunch tapas menu.
Vegetarian options are available.
The place is child-friendly and disabled-friendly.

El Borracho de Oro
Harborne Court, Harborne Road, Edgbaston, Birmingham B15 3BU. 0121 454 5368.