There can be few restaurants in Birmingham housed in buildings more attractive than that occupied by Three Church Road.
It’s a Grade II listed building that used to house the Royal School for Deaf Children.
And, while it’s retained its period features, there’s a light and contemporary feel.
There’s a maze of separate rooms and, outside, overlooked by the upmarket Audley St George’s Place retirement village, which provides a steady flow of customers, there’s a gorgeous well-tended garden so tranquil that it’s hard to grasp that this place is in the heart of Birmingham.
A Sunday lunchtime found the dining room at the front of the building busy as autumn’s waning sun filled the space with silver light that – you’ll see below – gave a dream-like quality to the food photographs that I took.
I was visiting as a guest of Delicious PR to try the Sunday lunch – £17.95 for two courses and £22.95 for three.
That’s good value, I think for food that doesn’t push any culinary boundaries but, like the decor of Three Church Road, acknowledges the contemporary while respecting the integrity of the the past.
This is a place to go if you want reminding that good, skilled cooking has a timeless charm.
Flavoursome hot-smoked salmon came in generously thick slices wrapped around a creamy truffle and mushroom pate with pickled pink grapefruit that cut through the richness.
Thin slices of crisped sourdough were a beautiful accompaniment.
Crab cakes were spiced and came attractively plated with a salad and strikingly bright bloody mary dressing.
The lamb loin to which I progressed was a properly pink chunk of meat, with a surrounding layer of fat that was melting and sweet.
It came stuffed with spinach and mint and with a gravy that was well-balanced and had depth and a good fluffy and rather large Yorkshire pudding.
Opposite, a roast chicken breast with bread sauce was eaten and enjoyed.
The vegetables served as a side were many, varied and precisely cooked, with the roast potatoes spot on – crunchy outside, soft within and very tasty.
Next, for me, came the highlight of the lunch.
Plum pudding cake was lightly textured but packed a sweet and sour punch from the spiced plum jam that came on top.
Custard added calming vanilla-rich sweetness to make this a glorious pudding.
The pretty lemon meringue pie eaten by my wife was far daintier and restrained choice.
Service throughout the meal was charming, efficient and utterly attentive.
We drank a glass each of New Zealand sauvignon blanc and claret from a wine list that’s short, well-priced and ticks plenty of boxes.
Need to know
Three Church Road also serves afternoon teas, bistro food and a full a la carte restaurant menu.
Customers can also visit simply for drinks.
Three Church Road
St George’s Place, 3 Church Road, Edgbaston, Birmingham B15 3SH. 0121 238 0803.
This is a sponsored post but an accurate reflection of my opinions.