No gnawing doubts about the High Field’s new menu

Gnawing on a bone should surely be enshrined as a basic entitlement in human rights legislation.

Few eating experiences match the pleasure of finding morsels of moist, tender, sweet meat hidden in some crevice of the bone.

Chomping on a chop or poultry leg has an almost primordial appeal.

Yet most restaurants seem reluctant to offer chops on their menus.

A hearty pat on the back, then, to the High Field in Edgbaston for including a pork chop on their newly-launched spring menu.

It was a bloody good free-range chop, too, from Jimmy Butler, the celebrated pig man (three words I never thought I’d use together).

As is right and proper in these matters, there was little mucking about with the chop.

It came perfectly cooked so that it was succulent, flavoursome and deeply savoury.

There was a light jus scattered with crisp fragments of crackling, shallots and tiny cubes of nicely sharp apple.

Alongside was a mound of smooth mashed potato punctuated with spring onions.

A wee word of criticism here: I thought the spuds should have been a little looser and luxurious and would have benefited from an extra punch of salt.

High Field

But my wife, whose dish also included mash, disagreed with me, so obviously I was wrong.

Lynn ate a beef and ale pie which looked fabulous – the crumbly pastry encasing dark tender meat and rich gravy.

We shared a side order of very pleasant buttered spring greens.

We’d started our meal by sharing a couple of dishes from the menu’s deli plates section of nibbles.

High Field

Halloumi fries were good enough to cause me to reconsider my lifelong opposition to a cheese I’d always regarded as dreadful because of its propensity to squeak against the teeth.

Here the the precisely-fried cheese was soft beneath a crisp coating and came with a punchy Bloody Mary ketchup.

An order of buttermilk chicken – meat from the thigh, I think – was also well-cooked.

A dip of chipotle mayo was smoky and gently spicy.

High Field

I’d happily construct a lunch from the deli plates section.

Desserts proved a beyond us because portions were generous.

Service throughout was attentive and efficient.

This is a gastropub that knows what it’s about and delivers quality and enjoyment.

Need to know

We paid just under £100 for food and two glasses of wine.

The place is child-friendly.

There are veggie options.

The High Field serves a fixed priced lunch.

It also offers breakfast.

The High Field

22 Highfield Road, Edgbaston, Birmingham B15 3DP. 0121 227 7068.